The Tsodilo Hills

The Tsodilo Hills are a rare and spiritually rewarding treat in the south-western corner of Botswana. An atmosphere of mystery and intrigue surrounds this unusual place, believed by the San (Bushmen) to be the site of first Creation. They painted more than 3 500 rock paintings against the remarkable stone faces of the hills. Some of the paintings date back to between 800 and 1300 AD.

The Tsodilo Hills are about 53km south-west of Shakawe and, unlike the nearby Okavango Delta, the landscape is dry and desert-like. The hills consist of four chunks of rock that rise abruptly from the dry expanse of desert. The San referred to the bigger rock as the "male", the smaller one as the "female", and the smallest one as the "child". Legend has it that the fourth hill was the male hill's first wife, whom he left for a younger wife, and who now lurks in the background.

The site is held sacred by the locals and a powerful presence has been felt by all visitors to Tsodilo Hills. The rock paintings can be found by following several trails leading to over 350 sites. Among the more interesting paintings is the zebra on a small outcrop which is now used as the logo of Botswana's NationalMuseums and Monuments. Some paintings like those of whales and penguins suggest contact between the San and other peoples. Others of note show a crowd of sexually excited male figures. Several days are needed to properly explore the extensive and exceptional rock paintings.